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The usual surf session is on weekdays. Dawn patrol in days with no morning meetings. It’s seldom a solitary activity in the summer, but it can be in winter days when the forecast doesn’t show size.

The break is Malibu Surfrider Beach. I used to walk down to the beach on the northeast side, by First Point and the pier, but lately I prefer to run along the Malibu Lagoon and do some wildlife watching (mostly birds) before hitting the surf.

The average duration is one hour in the water. After that, it gets cold or I get tired.

Sunrise is always a little bizarre in Malibu Point. The coast faces south in this part of the “West Coast” and, as one meanders down the Lagoon trail, there are sections in which the sun appears to be rising where it should be setting.

I surf both Second Point and Third Point, migrating from one to the other depending on wave shape or crowd factor. People mind their own minds and keep eyes on the horizon, rarely do I see any bullying attempts.

Shortboards only.

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